Regardless it is nice Jasper grade 3 route, all of 15m or so of steeper ice with a nice feel as it is near the top of the cliff band. I did the first ascent about 10 PM one night after the epic trail break to the base and sledding from town after work. Soled a line just left of the steeper ice with two screws and 10m of rope I keep in the truck for towing – didn’t actually expect to find useful ice. I thought it would be one of those take your gear for a hike trips.
Turned out to be a nice climb and lots of daylight in the land of the midnight sun means it is easily accessible during the work week. This is likely the northern most ice climb in western Canada and probably the only one past the Arctic Circle outside of Baffin.
Went back when it got warmer but skied over from the Demptster, via a cut line then across the lake to connect up with my existing trail, about 10 kms return. Pack was a little heavier than usual as the bears are out so there is a need to pack a shotgun. Tried going over this way earlier in the season and trail breaking through the metamorphosed snow kept travel down to about 1 km and hour – not worth it. Thankfully somebody had snowmobiled down the cutline thereby limiting the crap snow factor to about 100m. So skiing is viable later in the year in the right conditions, but can be extremely problematic otherwise. Sledding from town is much preferable with the caveat that getting back up the notch takes some level of expertise, especially if one is pulling a toboggan.
…and some go pro pix – one of what is surely the only pair of X Dreams in the Arctic, lo l. Had them ordered up, nice tools not sure they are significantly better than nomics – I did get one stuck but I am using the mixed pick.
