So, a productive weekend at the crag though fraught with unfortunate happenstances on Saturday. Pretty anything that could break, did from some reason or anther, and happily such events were limited to only small stuff, annoying but not a show stopper. First thing in the morning it was a lace, then out on the highway where I park it was 2 fastex buckles, then the tripod froze up and wouldn’t engage the camera plate, and lastly I snapped off a new double helix drill bit when I was standing in top etrier and was trying to finish a hole when my crampon skated out and I took a pretty good swing. Never had that happen before. So, new, lower hole was the order of they day. One Jumar also frozen open and no amount of hand thawing was going to get it to work, when something metal touches the fine grained snow up here and there is a temperature difference it melts into every fine opening and immediately freezes. Regardless I finally got to the roof and established an anchor, which opens up 3 routes.
The nest day I set full anchors to the right of the roof on 2 other lines, short but really fun. It minimized the logistics of change over at the station when I’m top roping with a jumar and also seemed a bit safer. So all round a reasonable move forward with respect to cliff development. That gives a total of 8 lines now
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